Winding Roads of East Tennessee: The Dragon as a Destination
One doesn’t travel the southern stretch of US Highway 129 unintentionally. It’s not likely you’ll accidentally stumble upon it, in fact, most traveling through Maryville, TN, on Highway 411 pass the turn onto 129 without even a glance. Rather, those who take 129 tend to do so with intent, knowing that they will be rewarded with the most beautiful scenery and most thrilling, even legendary, rides to be experienced in the United States.
Approximately 20 miles into the journey one will encounter the famous Dragon. The Dragon, or The Tail of the Dragon, is an eleven-mile section of 129 at Deal’s Gap right at the North Carolina border. What makes this stretch of road so spectacular is that there are 318 turns, more turns than any other stretch of road in the U.S.! The whipping and twisting of the road make the journey a must-do for car and motorcycle enthusiasts as they navigate turns such as The Switchbacks, Rebel’s Revenge, The Pearly Gates, and The Beginner’s End. But even for the average-speed car tourist, like myself, the ride is as exciting as any I’ve even experienced.
From the Tennessee side, the beginning of US 129 is a tour of the rural: farmhouses, barns, and mom and pop stores dot the way making the early stretch of 129 feel less like a highway than an old country road. After several miles, however, the farms give way to forest and that’s where the fun begins. Through the mountains, 129 travelers are actually following the path of an old Indian trail, the first settlers in the aggressive peaks and valleys. While electrical development began in the area in the mid-1910s with the construction of the Cheoah Dam and powerhouse, it wasn’t until 1931 that 129 opened the way for folks to cross from TN into NC by way of Deal’s Gap. Today, the National Park Service maintains most of the land around 129 as the Great Smoky Mountains, the Nantahala National Forest, and the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest.
While the beauty of the forest and the whipping of The Dragon’s Tail would be sufficient to entice travelers, every so often the trees give way to such sights as the Dragon Overlook, a beautiful, mountaintop pull off with a view of the river and valley far below. A bit farther and clearings offer breathtaking lakes, river views, and bridges – a collection of manmade marvels and nature’s best.
US 129 ends about 10 miles south of Robbinsville, NC, but day-trippers usually stop at the Deal’s Gap Motorcycle Resort (about 18 miles north of Robbinsville) for refreshments before heading home. On the other hand, if you want to make it a weekend, consider continuing on to the Highlands in NC by way of Franklin. The Highlands is a historic little town situated at over 4,000 feet in elevation. While there are ample hiking, rafting, biking, and other opportunities, the Highland’s downtown offers a cozy and upscale resort of antique dealers, high-end restaurants, bed and breakfast inns, and a historic restored Old Edwards Inn. The laid-back nature of this getaway make this the perfect place to rejuvenate before having to, once again, slay the Dragon.
